How to Install Laminate Flooring: A Tutorial on Laying a New Floor and Re-installing the Baseboards

Laminate flooring has become the floor of choice for many homeowners in the past several years. There are many good reasons for this. Notably, it needs very little maintenance (unlike carpet), it is incredibly durable, and it comes in a vast array of colors/styles. Since being introduced to the US back in 1982, laminate flooring sales has seen a growth of up to twenty per cent per year. This article is a step by step guide on how to install laminate flooring in your home.

Preparing the Floor

If you've got another type of flooring, this is the time to get rid of it. Pull up your old carpet and padding. Remove all of the tack strips around the room's perimeter. You may need to scrape the floor to get rid of any padding sticking to it. Vacuum it well. If there are any noticeable dips, level them out. On a concrete slab, thinset may be skimmed on it.

Remove the baseboards. You may be able to save these if you are careful. Now use the coping saw to cut off the bottoms of door jambs, case openings, etc. This will probably be 1/4” to 3/8” dependent on the combined thickness of the laminate and underlayment pad. It is recommended to buy the thicker pad; it is well worth the added expense.

In order to know how much laminate flooring and underlayment pad to buy you will need the square footage. To get this simply measure the area's footage right to left and then forward and back. Multiply those figures together and that is your square footage. It is prudent to add at least 5% to that figure for scraps.

Install your laminate flooring

The first thing to do is roll out the underlayment pad. Connect the pieces together with wide, clear, plastic tape. How your laminate planks connect depends on the brand you buy but they are all rather simple; most simply snap together. Remember to stagger the joints.

Laminate flooring is a type of “floating floor”, meaning that it is all connected to itself but not to the house. With this in mind, leave 1/4” clearance at each wall. On the initial wall where you start, use spacers that you can pull out before installing the baseboards.

As you go along you will need to use your mallet and pull bar to snug things up. A few gentle taps will do.

Things will get tricky as you go through doorways; the manufacturer's instructions most likely will not tell you about this because it impedes sales to DIY'ers. In some circumstances the best solution is to use your utility knife to trim the snapping connections on the adjoining planks so that they can slide together. In this case, use a few drops of wood glue to keep them together.

Finishing up - Install the Baseboards

Once you're done with installing the laminate flooring planks you can get on your baseboards. If you've been careful with the removal you can reuse them. Otherwise, cut and install new baseboards. Miter and caulk all joints. Remember not to nail into the planks – this is a floating floor. If you find you have cut some planks too short and the baseboard doesn't cover adequately, don't fret; just install quarter-round at the floor line.

Aug 28, 2008 6:50 PM

Guest :

do you install the first in the middle of the room

Sep 5, 2008 8:37 PM

Guest :

Usually easier to start at the longest wall. Place the spacers along the wall and begin to lay your boards. No need to start in the middle as you would if laying ceramic tile.

Sep 6, 2008 6:52 AM

Kelly Smith :

Yes, but even with ceramic tile, I always start on a wall. I use a notched trowel to spread mortar, then lay five or six full tiles, and then use my wet saw to cut the border tiles, and lay them. I work across the room from there. Same thing when I grout. Starting in the middle can be problematic.

Sep 8, 2008 5:09 AM

Guest :

Had some kitchen damage - need to replace cabinets AND flooring. Which do we do first - lay new laminate floor or install cabinets? And is this a "no experience necessary" kinda job that we can do ourselves?

Sep 8, 2008 7:21 AM

Kelly Smith :

I always install the cabinets first and then install the flooring. Finally, I install the baseboard. I don't see any problem doing it yourself. We all have to start somewhere.

I have another article on the site that explains the tips I learned the hard way when I had my first encounter with laminate installation, "Laminate Floor Installation Tips". You can find it by clicking on my name and clicking on "all articles".

Be careful with laminate in the kitchen; it doesn't like a lot of water - clean up spills right away. Have fun with your kitchen remodel project!

Sep 9, 2008 3:32 PM

Guest :

What is the best. To lay the laminate the long way in the room, or the short way. My room is 11'4"x15'2".

Sep 9, 2008 3:41 PM

Kelly Smith :

Usually, shorter runs of laminate flooring planks are easier to work with and snug up. But your room is close enough to the same that it wouldn't make much difference either way. Just consider this - the room will tend to look longer in the direction that the planks are running. So you can emphasize the size of the room; kind of like opening it up with a lighter shade of paint.

Sep 9, 2008 10:49 PM

Guest :

My floors have dips after the installer installed my laminate flooring. They didn't level it like you said above. They did put in underlayment. Should I sue them?

Sep 10, 2008 8:13 AM

Kelly Smith :

I don't know if I would jump right into suing them. How bad is it? Just don't give them the final payment until they fix it. I hope they are bonded and insured?

Sep 11, 2008 10:45 AM

Guest :

If I was to install a tile look, snap together laminate floor with either 9 X 9 or 15 X 15 tiles on a roughly 48" X 15" board at a 45% angle how much more waste should I consider and is there a best way to cut the starter piece to reduce watse? Thanks in advance..Rob

Sep 21, 2008 4:19 AM

Guest :

How do I install laminate flooring under baseboard heat?

Sep 25, 2008 11:42 PM

Guest :

a knock block comes in handy...just remember never use it on the flooring you're installing ...use a scrap and and give it a tap...

Sep 27, 2008 3:51 PM

Guest :

Do I need to add plywood to a concrete floor before putting down laminate?

Sep 28, 2008 9:13 AM

Kelly Smith :

No, you don't need to put down plywood over concrete before installing laminate. Just be sure your slab is level; chip off high spots and float low spots with quick coat.

Next goes your underlayment. Be sure the vapor barrier side is up and seal the seams with wide plastic tape.

Oct 2, 2008 9:35 AM

Guest :

I have laminate floor in my kitchen and my dishwasher has flooded on it twice with minimal problems due to my glueing together of the pieces. I would highly recommend doing this to any laminate floor because who knows when you may spill a glass of water/soda on it.

Oct 3, 2008 9:11 AM

Guest :

My contractor is addiment about putting base board down the putting down laminent w/ the baseboard raised!! is this really doable?

Oct 4, 2008 6:47 AM

Kelly Smith :

Absolutely not! Even with the base raised, he'll have to butt the laminate planks to the base on two sides of the room because there's no way to get it under due to the way it snaps together.

The whole reason for base is as a trim to cover up the rough edges where the floor meets the wall. Tell him to lay the floor and then install the base. Remember, you have the checkbook; insist on a professional job.

Oct 6, 2008 11:21 AM

Guest :

ok question. Would it work to install flooring over old vinyl flooring? This floor has radiant electric heat underneath, although it is no longer used (but still works). I was hoping not to have to remove the vinyl floor to get to the concrete slab. Thanks

Oct 6, 2008 11:23 AM

Guest :

i'm installing laminate flooing,my living room & dinning room,my problem is that my kitching is about 1/2" taller. how do i transition the flooring

Oct 6, 2008 12:00 PM

Kelly Smith :

As long as the vinyl is in decent condition you can install on top of it. I personally prefer not to do it because I like to remain as close to grade as I can. The underlayment plus the laminate planks themselves add thickness so you can run into unexpected problems, like doors dragging across the finished floor. Just check all details before you start.

I would advise you to disconnect the radiant floor heating system as well, just to be on the safe side.

Oct 6, 2008 12:01 PM

Guest :

I have some water damage on the laminate floor next to my fireplace. How hard is it to replace laminate that has been down for about 4 years? I'm hoping to use laminate from a large closet to repair with. I'll just locate something similar for the closet. Is this something a DIY can do or should I just call the professionals?

Oct 6, 2008 12:10 PM

Kelly Smith :

Question about kitchen floor height offset (2 comments above): Your flooring store should be able to provide you with a trim piece called a "reducer strip". It's usually used to transition to a lower surface, but just turn it around and use it that way.

Oct 6, 2008 12:17 PM

Kelly Smith :

Question about rain damage next to the fireplace above: Certainly you can replace this. Without seeing it, I'm not too sure how involved it will be, but basically, you start at the wall, remove the baseboard, and "un-install" until you get just past the bad spot. Then just re-install using the good planks.

Of course, if the planks from the closet aren't long enough, you may have to find a match at your flooring store.

Oct 6, 2008 7:16 PM

Guest :

Which way do you roll out underlayment pad? Same direction as floor or opposite?

Oct 7, 2008 6:16 AM

Guest :

hi we want to install a laminate in our kitchen but what about the kickboards do we cut them as it is a high gloss cream and im worried about seeing the cut. Do we cut it at the top so you cant see it ?

Oct 7, 2008 6:30 AM

Guest :

I'm going to put a snap together wood floor in my dining room and think I understand most things but I have a "step down" living room and there's a 6" x 1" x 7' "step" (wood) between the dining room and the living room. It sticks up about an inch. If the laminate has to be 1/4" from room edges do I really have a 1/4" gap between the step board and the flooring? Or some sort of "T" piece of trim to span the gap? Seems to be limited and somewhat clunky solutions to what I would think is a common situation? Any suggestions?

Oct 8, 2008 7:40 AM

Kelly Smith :

The underlayment can be rolled out in any direction that's the most convenient for you. It's just important that the vapor barrier side is up and that you seal the seams with wide plastic tape.

Oct 8, 2008 8:00 AM

Guest :

We are putting in laminate flooring in our kitchen and dining room-we took out ceramic tiling and the sub floor...now all that is left is the 3/4 inch plwood....do we need to put in another subfloor first? The ceramic went under the sheetrock so now we have 2-3 inch gaps-please help!

Oct 8, 2008 8:11 AM

Kelly Smith :

* Answer to the question two comments up regarding transitioning to the living room step:

There are a variety of trim pieces available to make a good looking finish in these types of situations. In your case, a "stair nose", "T-molding", or "end cap" might work well. I just posted a laminate floor transition photo (see above) that shows some T-molding trim I installed between laminate and ceramic tile.

Your floor store can get trim for you to match your laminate. If they don't have it in stock, have them order it for you.

Oct 8, 2008 8:23 AM

Kelly Smith :

* Answer to the question regarding kitchen floor remodel after removing tile:

The 3/4 inch plywood is fine for the laminate subfloor. About the gap at the sheetrock where the ceramic tile slipped under, this shouldn't be a problem. If you start from that wall, the laminate plank will go up to the sheetrock and and still allow the 1/4 inch gap from the framing bottom plate.

Are you saying you have a 2-3 inch vertical gap at the wall? You can add a strip of drywall there so you'll have a solid backing for nailing your baseboard.

Oct 8, 2008 9:35 AM

Guest :

Iam have removed my carpet and the wood strips/nails that the carpet is attached along the edges, and when I pull out the nails a piece of concrete comes off as well, before I lay my laminate will I need to fill those in with the quick coat?

Oct 8, 2008 11:15 AM

Kelly Smith :

If you just have those small holes from removing the tack strip, you don;t have to worry about filling them, although you can if you like. The reason is that those spots are unlikely to bear any pressure with the finished floor. The baseboard will cover those spots.

Oct 8, 2008 7:30 PM

Guest :

We are going to lay the laminate floor this weekend but our problem is this. We have the old peel and stick tile. Do we pull up the tile? We have pulled it up in one room and the floor is nasty and black with the left over glue stuff. We have read to pull up all tile lay plywood down then put the laminate on top of the plywood. Then we read to just lay the laminate on top of the tile. What do we do? sand the floor do the plywood thing please help someone!!

Oct 9, 2008 4:33 AM

Kelly Smith :

I would recommend getting that black mastic off the subfloor prior to laying the underlayment and laminate. I don't see why you should lay plywood down; if your subfloor was fine for tile it should be fine for laminate.

Oct 9, 2008 8:30 AM

Guest :

i'm installing laminate floor in the hallway that turns to the right how do i make the planks meet and what is the best way to lay it

Oct 9, 2008 8:38 AM

Kelly Smith :

I usually run the planks straight down the longest part of the hallway, and then at the right turn, just continue. This means on the long hallway, the planks run with the walls, and in the shorter hallway they're butting into the walls.

Alternatively, you can lay the long hallway as above, and then when the hallway turns, begin running the planks down the other hallway. Then the planks in one hallway will be perpendicular to the other. Where they meet, trim it out with a piece of T-molding.

Oct 9, 2008 8:55 AM

Guest :

I am replacing the laminate flooring in my kitchen. The builder installed the original laminate first, and then installed the cabinets. i do not want to remove the cabinets- they must stay in place. What kind of tool or saw should I use to cut the laminate at the toe kick? Dremel Tool? I plan to use a quarter round at the toe kick to cover the gap.

Oct 10, 2008 7:59 AM

Kelly Smith :

Wow, this is an interesting one! The closest thing in my arsenal is a sawzall. My Rotozip would do the job, but I think it wouldn't get close enough. So yes, a Dremel would do it, but you'll probably have to take breaks so it won't overheat.

Other than that, there's always the trusty chisel and hammer.

Oct 10, 2008 8:13 AM

Guest :

I am installing laminate flooring in the living quarters of a horse trailer. The original flooring is linoleum sheeting that runs under all the cabinets. It is in good shape, just really ugly. Do I need to rip out the original flooring or can I just lay the laminate on top?

Oct 10, 2008 9:06 AM

Kelly Smith :

Sure, you can lay underlayment and laminate on top of the existing floor. Just check everything to ensure you won't have any height differential problems.

Oct 11, 2008 8:33 AM

Guest :

I installed a laminate floor up to curved tile; what can I use to cover the transition point when there is a shape? Can I use grout?

Oct 11, 2008 9:12 AM

Kelly Smith :

Have you tried using T-molding (click on the above picture labeled "Laminate Floor Transition")? If the curve won't let you do it, go to your flooring store and have the salesperson drag out the different kinds of trim pieces. There's quite a variety, even if it has to be ordered.

Oct 11, 2008 9:49 AM

Guest :

Kelly - I am laying lamanite flooring in a family room 14 x 27.5 - would it be best to lay lengthwise the 27.5 or the shorter 14? - the hall tile entryway is facing the 27.5 wall. And what do you use to butt up against a brick fireplace?

Oct 12, 2008 2:19 PM

Kelly Smith :

I would run the planks across the shorter side, because this balances the room's dimensions more effectively. And where a brick fireplace is concerned, you can just use the same baseboard as is used in the rest of the room. You'll just have to secure it with an adhesive like liquid nails.

Oct 13, 2008 8:17 AM

Guest :

Hi, so happy I found this site. I am laying laminate flooring in my hallway, foyer, and the small are that connects those two (seperate) areas to my great room. The great room has a different color laminate down already,I got as close as could to that color. I finally found a transition piece that was long enough to fit in the opening, but I don't know which way I should lay the flooring. It is like I have three seperate areas and the hallway has six different doorways. Which way do I start and how would I try and connect those three areas that don't actually have doorways? HELP!! I am also on a concrete slab.

Oct 14, 2008 4:37 AM

Kelly Smith :

Is it a straight shot from the foyer, down the hallway, to the great room? I would run the laminate planks parallel with the walls of the hallway, starting from the front door in the foyer.

My home is on a concrete slab as well. I used the thicker underlayment and it's worked out well. Have fun!

Oct 14, 2008 7:16 AM

Guest :

I hope to replace the carpet and linoleum (3 layers) with laminate in my kid's university condo.I have read that you suggest that the basebaords are removed prior to laying the laminate. Unfortunately, their baseboards are made of steel and look impossible to remove without destroying- and I really can't replace them because of cost. Is there any way around this? It looks as though I'll have enough room to go under them. What can you suggest? Also the main room is 12' by 30', and I don't know which way to run the laminate.And is it OK to install in their bathrooms- they use mats for any water. Thank you!

Oct 14, 2008 7:41 AM

Guest :

Installing laminate flooring against the aluminum tread of a double sliding glass door, what do you use for transition?

Oct 14, 2008 7:56 AM

D'Anza Judge :

I had the question about the foyer, great room, and hallway. When you first walk into my home you are in the foyer, at the end of the foyer there is a small area (in front of a bedroom) before you reach the great room slightly to the right.It is probably considered part of the hallway, but it is larger than the hallway to the bedrooms because it leads into the great room. If you were to turn left you would be in the smaller part of the hallway (where the rest of the bedrooms are located). If I had a few more pieces that matched the existing floor it might be easier to fill that spot. Someone told me to make it all go one way, but either way I will have to cut the laminate almost in half. Not sure if it will look right with all those jagged edges from the saw.

Oct 16, 2008 9:29 AM

Guest :

My daughter let a sink overflow onto my laminate flooring. She had walked away from the sink so she did not know how long the water sat on the floor. The problem I am now having is some edges have curled up a little and the floor continues to snap when walkning on it even in areas where there was no water left sitting. The water leakage was bad enough that it went to the basement ceilings. I want to replace some of the flooring but I do not know how to remove the transition piece to get started. The floor snaped even befor the water damage. Is this because it may have been installed without enough gap at the walls?

Oct 17, 2008 8:55 AM

Guest :

Is the underlayment of cork board or other strickly required. I saw a video on utube by a DIY where he only used clean sheets of plywood and laid the laminate floor plank directly on them. The job came out good it seemed

Oct 20, 2008 9:46 AM

Kelly Smith :

No, there's a special underlayment made for laminate flooring and I would not make an installation without it. It consists of a padding and a vapor barrier. It takes care of minor subfloor imperfections and minimizes traffic noise. The manufacturer may even require it in order not to void the warranty.

Oct 20, 2008 1:42 PM

Guest :

If the laminate flooring comes with an attached pad, does it still need an underlayment? And is a vapor barrier necessary if installing over a dry particle-board subflooring?

Oct 21, 2008 6:13 AM

Kelly Smith :

You shouldn't need to attach a separate moisture barrier because the underlayment has it built-in. But here's the thing about laminate with pre-attached underlayment - when you snap the planks together, there's a break in the vapor barrier. In my opinion, it'a best to use roll out underlayment and tape the seams with wide plastic tape. Then install laminate without pre-attached underlayment.

Plus, it's generally more economical.

Oct 23, 2008 7:45 AM

Guest :

Is it good to snap a chalk line for the first piece that I lay down, to make sure that it keeps the floor square? Thanks

Oct 23, 2008 9:10 AM

Guest :

I would like to install laminate flooring in my home; however, I am not fond of the hollow sound that it makes when you walk on it. Is there an installation method available that would avoid this?

Oct 23, 2008 10:56 AM

Guest :

I have a stair that is rounded it is pretty big and leads from the hallway to the living room that both have the laminate flooring .What do I do with this stair.

Oct 24, 2008 8:20 AM

Kelly Smith :

CHALK LINE QUESTION - You can snap a chalk line if you like but it's almost never needed because rooms are hardly ever that out of square. When this is an issue, I do snap a control line and then take measurements and rip the first plank on my table saw accordingly.

Oct 24, 2008 8:24 AM

Kelly Smith :

HOLLOW SOUND QUESTION - What I do is spend the extra few pennies and buy the thickest underlayment. It absorbs the sound extremely well.

Oct 24, 2008 8:27 AM

Kelly Smith :

ROUNDED STAIR QUESTION - I'm not really sure what you're asking. You've already laid the floor?

Oct 26, 2008 5:54 AM

Guest :

I have just started laying laminate in my basement i have the vaperbarrier in place and the floor appears to be level,but the laminate is sometime poping apart when i go to snap and tap in the next piece,exactly how level does the floor have to be,or is there some other reason they are coming apart?

Oct 26, 2008 2:30 PM

Kelly Smith :

I'm sure if the floor passes the visual test for level, this shouldn't be the problem. Are you using a pull bar to snug up the planks? I've also found that after I lay a run, if I get up and walk the length of it, my weight will really lock it into position. Give that a try.

Oct 26, 2008 10:45 PM

Guest :

I am about to lay laminate wood in my galley style kitchen, measuring 7' x 15'. I'm thinking it will be easiest (and correct) to lay planks the long way but read that you want to run short way to open up and make space appear wider. Your suggestion?

Oct 27, 2008 8:01 AM

Kelly Smith :

It's really a matter of preference. Going the short way will indeed open up the space visually. It would also be easier to install since shorter runs are easier to work with with manufacturers like Armstrong.

Just be careful with spilled water. Laminate doesn't like it. So kitchens are usually alright while bathrooms are not.

Oct 27, 2008 8:11 AM

Guest :

Can you and should you lay an engineered wood flooring straight on top of a very well stuck down and very flat laminate floor?
Also do you need to use underlay in this case?

Oct 27, 2008 11:23 AM

Kelly Smith :

I would not; I would remove the existing laminate floor for two reasons:
1. By its nature, laminate is a floating floor system. Installing on top of it might introduce problems in the future.
2. As you install the engineered floor, you'll likely encounter height differential problems at doors, transitions, etc.

In the end, it's more professional to take up the laminate and start from scratch.

Oct 27, 2008 3:04 PM

Guest :

I'd like to install laminate in a large Lshaped basement area approximately 28x28 with several hallways leading off of it. Can laminate be installed in that large of an area without a T bar for breathing space?

Oct 29, 2008 11:30 PM

Guest :

IN response to the party who wanted to replace their old laminate floor without removing their kitchen cabinets,I think the proper tool to use would be a toe kick saw. I know harbor freight tool sells them,and I think you can also rent them.

Oct 29, 2008 11:32 PM

Guest :

Nov 1, 2008 12:37 PM

Guest :

I am installing a laminate floor next to a brick wall. What do I use to secure the molding?

Nov 2, 2008 5:54 AM

Guest :

I'm getting ready to install laminate flooring in the kitchen. I have to begin where the carpet ends from the family room. How do you do this without the planks moving which will cause your measurements to be off if it moves? Do I put the transition piece in first?

Nov 2, 2008 5:56 AM

Guest :

Nov 2, 2008 9:17 AM

Guest :

The first floor in my house is all tiled. Nice work but very old, and some tiles pieces were loose from the previously water pipe damage (underneath the slab, I think).
I want to replace with laminated floor. Should we put the laminated over the tile, or rip off the floor completely to prepare for the laminated floor? What is pro and con please. Thanks

Nov 3, 2008 10:14 AM

Kelly Smith :

SECURING THE MOLDING QUESTION: I like to use a hammer drill for pilot holes in a concrete slab and then secure the track with Tapcon screws. On a wood subfloor, I just use screws.

Nov 3, 2008 10:19 AM

Kelly Smith :

LAMINATE IN THE KITCHEN QUESTION: If you're starting at the carpet, go ahead and install the transition track but don't snap the transition in yet. Instead just place 1/4 inch shims against the track. That will give you something solid to work against. When done, remove the shims and snap in the transition.

Nov 4, 2008 3:05 AM

Guest :

Laminate in kitchen/hallway. We are installing laminate in kitchen/hallway (T-shape). Should we start left to right without using a transition strip from kitchen to hallway? The length from start of hallway to kitchen island is 18'. Also, how do you work around an island so that you don't end up with a piece less than 2" while trying to go to the end of the kitchen without having a piece less than 2"?

Nov 4, 2008 5:39 PM

Guest :

Can you tell me how to start the subsequent rows after the first course so that the seams are staggered? Is there a rule...do you cut the second and thirds rows shorter? Only the second row? or more than three?

Nov 5, 2008 3:57 PM

Guest :

Hello,
My friend gave me her leftover laminate flooring and it is just enough for my guest bathroom. This bathroom is hardly used, maybe a shower once a year.
Can you put this type of flooring in a bathroom? If so, how do you do around the toliet?

Nov 6, 2008 5:12 AM

Guest :

I just installed a laminate floor. I had one base cabinet that was not attached to the wall and so I moved it and laid the floor under the spot where it was. After reading all the cautions about laminate moving I am afraid to put the cabinet back. I have read about leg levelers or some kind of nylon guides to put under this cabinet. Is that necessary and if so what should I use and where would I get it? The cabinet is about 22 inches deep and 36 inches wide, so it is not big.

Nov 7, 2008 11:25 PM

Guest :

Do I need to fill nail holes in the concrete floor near the edge of the room where the carpet tack strips were? Seems like they wouldn't be a problem because they are so close to the wall. Some have popped off a bit more concrete when they were pulled (about the size of a quarter).

Nov 8, 2008 5:56 AM

Guest :

Nov 9, 2008 5:49 AM

Guest :

I purchased some strips of t-molding from a flooring store. They did not come with any traks. I am installing on concrete and wood upstairs. How should I install the molding? Liquid Nails to the slab, or to the laminate? Or should I go back to the store and get traks?

Nov 9, 2008 12:52 PM

Guest :

I'm putting laminate flooring down. The flooring will run perpendicular to a heating vent that is about 4" from the wall & 10" long. How do you work around this when pieces are suppose to be at least 8" in length?

Nov 10, 2008 5:19 AM

Kelly Smith :

KITCHEN/HALLWAY QUESTION: If you want the planks running the same direction throughout, just flow from one area to the next with no transition. But if you prefer to turn direction of the planks in one room, used a transition strip.

Nov 10, 2008 5:22 AM

Kelly Smith :

SUBSEQUENT ROW QUESTION: What I like to do is just start the next row with the drop-off cut piece from the prior row, as long as it is at least a foot long. This way, all rows will be staggered at different points.

Nov 10, 2008 1:14 PM

Guest :

I am really struggling with laying my laminate flooring. When I go to do a second, or subsequent row, the first and second piece usually go in fine but when I go to lay the third piece in the first 2 pop out. It seems that I have to raise each piece at quite an angle to get them to go in, this angle tilt causes prior ones to come out of position. HELP!

Nov 11, 2008 8:50 AM

Kelly Smith :

GUEST BATHROOM QUESTION: I usually don't recommend putting laminate in a bathroom because of water issues. The proper way to do the toilet is to pull it out, lay the flooring, and then reinstall the toilet, using a new wax ring.

Nov 11, 2008 8:51 AM

Guest :

I believe you've talked me into giving it a go myself. My question is how is the T molding attached? Surely it is not just loosely sitting there between the adjoining floors.

Oh, can you give me a bit of advice concerning thicknesses and grades? I see a variety of warranties as well.

Thank you.

Nov 11, 2008 8:54 AM

Kelly Smith :

CABINET QUESTION: Don't worry about the cabinet, it will be fine. Laminate is a floating floor system, but that basically means it's not fastened to the subfloor. The nylon slides? I use those under my beds on my laminate floors. They have them at Home Depot.

Nov 11, 2008 8:57 AM

Kelly Smith :

CARPET TACK STRIP HOLE QUESTION: Don't worry about filling those holes. As you said, they are so near the wall, plus the fact that the baseboard will cover them to some extent.

Nov 11, 2008 9:03 AM

Kelly Smith :

T-MOLDING/LIQUID NAILS QUESTION: Yes, you should use the track. It makes it easy to unsnap in the future. On a concrete slab, the preferred method is drilling holes with a hammer drill and securing the track with Tapcon screws.

But I have had situations where the concrete was so brittle it was just chipping out so I had to use Liquid Nails and it worked fine. Set it down into the Liquid Nails and set a couple of bricks on it overnight so it cures. Then just snap the molding in.

Nov 11, 2008 9:11 AM

Kelly Smith :

HEATING VENT QUESTION: Yes, sometimes you have to bend the rules. You'll have to run around it most likely and then fill in the small pieces between the vent and the wall.

On at least one plank (the last chunk), it will be impossible to snap it together. For this one, shave off the snapping surfaces on both pieces. Then put a tiny bead of wood glue on the mating surfaces, not so much that it will drip down onto the underlayment. Then just put a weight on the joint overnight while the glue sets up.

Nov 11, 2008 9:19 AM

Kelly Smith :

ROWS POPPING OUT QUESTION: Yes, this really is a problem on long runs and I keep hoping the industry would address it. (You should hear how it's made me talk dirty. In an inordently loud voice!

The best solution is to have enough helpers so that the whole row can be lowered and snapped in evenly.

But I have had some degree of success cheating by doing it very slowly, bit by bit, and setting heavy weights every couple of feet so that it can't unsnap. Then, before removing the weights I use the pull bar to ensure it's all snugged up and then walk on the run to be double sure it's secure.

Nov 11, 2008 9:33 AM

Kelly Smith :

ATTACHING T-MOLD QUESTION: Congrats on deciding to DIY! You'll have fun and save all that labor money.

The T-mold should come in two pieces. The matching piece, shaped like a "T" and a metal track that it snaps into. The track can be secured to a wood subfloor with screws. On a concrete slab, drill holes with a hammer drill and secure with Tapcon masonry screws. They're easy to find at Home Depot; they're painted bright blue.

The thickness of the planks isn't so important as the name brand. Don't go bargain basement. I like Armstrong and Pergo.

I do like to use the thicker underlayment though. It really deadens the sound and minimizes any subfloor imperfections.

Nov 11, 2008 10:32 AM

Guest :

We are removing carpet in a hallway that has bedrooms off the hallway where the carpet will remain. We are installing laminate wood in the hallway. What kind of transition pieces can we use where the existing carpet meets the laminate wood? Once we remove the carpet from the hallway, there's nothing holding the carpet down at the doorways any longer.

Nov 14, 2008 7:01 AM

Guest :

If I start laying the laminate along the longest wall with the groove (locking edge) facing toward the inside of the room, do I need to continue with the groove facing the same way in each of the adjoining rooms.
I am laying a living room that runs through the hallway and through into the kitchen. Should I try to make it one continuous floor or should I break it up at each threshold?

Jim

Nov 14, 2008 11:05 AM

Kelly Smith :

Hi Jim,

Yes, whichever way you start the locking edge, you should stick with it until you're done with that area.

As far as making transitions, it all depends on personal preference. For myself, I like the flow of a continuous floor and only transition when the type of flooring material changes. See the second picture above, it's the doorway to my home office. I laid the ceramic tile in the hallway first and then the laminate. I used the thicker underlayment and the height came out perfect.

Have fun with your project!

Nov 14, 2008 9:27 PM

Guest :

Hello Kelly,
I am so glad I found this site, your great articles and this Q&A area. We are DIYing our entire house in laminate and have a problem in a prominent area of the kitchen. We've laid down the whole room and at the opposite wall, under the kitchen's picture window, we have a 1 1/4" space, too narrow to rip another board but too wide to be hidden by the baseboard and 1/4 round. We've been told about using half round instead of 1/4 round but it looks unsightly, too fat and bulky for such a visible and important area of the room. I would be grateful for any suggestions you might have to cover this gap. Thank you

Monique

Nov 15, 2008 5:43 AM

Guest :

CARPETED STEPS. We have carpeted steps leading upstairs from the hallway that will have laminate flooring. How do you hide the expansion gap from the flooring to the carpeted step?

Nov 15, 2008 6:38 AM

Kelly Smith :

PICTURE WINDOW GAP QUESTION: What I like to do to cover up a bit more real estate is to first nail up a thick baseboard and then add the quarter round to the bottom of the base. It gives the base a more three dimensional look.

But that might not be enough in your case. You can probably still rip a 1 1/4 inch piece and shave off the locking part of the tongue with a sharp utility knife and then apply just a tiny bit of wood glue to the mating surfaces and set it straight down and then apply the base. It's so close to the wall that it's not likely to come loose.

Nov 15, 2008 6:45 AM

Kelly Smith :

CARPETED STEP QUESTION: Are you talking about the where the floor meets the vertical riser of the first step? You probably don't want to try to nail anything, but what you can do is glue quarter round or shoe mold down to the laminate. Liquid nails would be fine. Just paint it before you glue it down to make the job easier.

Nov 15, 2008 6:56 PM

Guest :

guest: can I install laminate over 1" foam over concrete

Nov 16, 2008 5:01 AM

Kelly Smith :

FOAM QUESTION: I'm not sure I understand the question. What kind of foam? Some kind of insulating material?

On a concrete slab, all you need is the underlayment, vapor barrier side up, and laminate on top of that.

I hope that answers your question. If not, let me know.

Nov 23, 2008 6:15 AM

Guest :

T-MOLDING/DOOR FRAME: 2 questions: My transition pc. needs to be about 144"(longest T Moldg is 87")-do I just butt to pc. together with no gap?
DOOR FRAME - Do I cut into the base of the door frame so that my laminate fits under this? I've cut the trim to proper length but wasn't sure about the door frame.

Nov 23, 2008 5:54 PM

Guest :

KITCHEN/HALLWAY: I have a "T" shaped kitchen/hallway with an island a little left of hallway. If I start left to right I butt up against the island making sure my pcs. are not less than required width with a few inches before the hallway starts. How do I then begin in the hallway and meet up with the island?

Nov 26, 2008 7:59 AM

Kelly Smith :

KITCHEN/HALLWAY QUESTION: If I understand the situation, start at the left as you suggested and work up to the island. Then, you'll be working around the island on the two sides perpendicular to the one you butted up to.

Now when you get to the far side of the island, you'll be able to lay a long run again, snapping into the two runs around the island. Then, it will all flow smoothly into the hallway.

Nov 27, 2008 6:32 AM

Guest :

The manuf. says to leave a 3/8" exp gap. My shoe molding that I took off is 3/8", can I instead leave a 5/16" gap to use the molding that I have?

Dec 2, 2008 4:27 AM

Kelly Smith :

I think that would be alright. I usually go for 1/4" since there are usually some variations at the walls.

Dec 2, 2008 12:25 PM

Guest :

Kelly hello, its nice to meet you.

I've bought a small house and want desperately to remove the old tile and replace it with laminate. It has radiant floor heat beneath a concrete slab. My problem is this. I'm a rather creative person and after a bit of thinking have my heart set on laying out a picture frame design. Meaning a darker laminate on the perimeter (3 pieces of of laminate wide, approx 2 ft) and a lighter on the interior. The edges of the darker would likely need to be cut at a 45 degree angle. The store where I was buying my laminate said their installer couldn't lay out a room in this manner I'd imagine because they can't lock the edges into place.

Are they right in saying I shouldn't do this? Can't glue be used along those edges? BTW I'm a woman who hates to be told I can't do something but you seem quite the professional so I'll take your word on it.

Michelle

Dec 2, 2008 11:51 PM

Guest :

I need help!!
I have a basement that has 1,700 sq.F total. The entire floor is cover with a very inexpensive (thin) comercial carpet wich is glued to the cement. The floor it self is quite uneven, having the carpet smooths it out.
I would like to install laminated wood. My question is. Is it posible to leave the comercial carpet in place since is glued an use as if it was the padding? I'm thinking to use the snap type.
I saw a friend of mine having her basement floor done. Before they install the laminated flooring they placed a sort of plastic pad. Can I use this pad on top of the comercial carpet I have?
I'll appreciate the effort very much to whomever has the time to answer my request giving me some guidance on how to tackel this dilema.
Thanks a million.

Tania

Dec 3, 2008 5:16 AM

Kelly Smith :

Michelle:
I see what you mean about the 45 degree angle, and I understand why they told you the installer couldn't lay it out this way. And you're quite right that the sticking point is not being able to snap the planks together. This would be the problem on the 4 places where the perimeter meets in 45 degree angles and also on three sides of the interior.

Does this mean it can't be done? I'm sure it could be done but it would be problematic. As you say, it could be glued but it would involve cutting some pretty precise half lap joints.

If it was me, I would do the perimeter with hardwood or parquet (that part would be non-floating) and then the interior with laminate. Either way, this is a job for a finish carpenter or a DIYer, not an "installer". You are right not to take their word for it.

Dec 3, 2008 6:47 AM

Kelly Smith :

Hi Tania,
There are a couple of things you'll need to do. First, pull out the carpet. Then get up the adhesive. I have seen citrus based solvents that do a good job of this. If the floor is uneven, use a self-leveling compound on it; this will take care of the unevenness.

The pad they put down is a special underlayment for laminate floors. It's got a vapor barrier on one side. This side should go up, especially in a basement. You can buy laminate that has it pre-installed on the planks but I don't like it as well because it means you have a break in the vapor barrier on each plank.

That being said, you said the carpet is commercial grade? If it has no pile and doesn't give under foot, you could probably get away with putting the underlayment and new floor on top of it. Just make sure you don't run into any height problems at doors, etc. from having two layers of finish floor.

Dec 4, 2008 7:24 PM

Guest :

I am installing laminate in my kitchen and dining area this weekend. Do I need ot use a reducer or piece of trim board next to the sliding glass door where the aluminum edge is on the sliding glass door?

Dec 4, 2008 10:49 PM

Guest :

Thank you Kelly from the bottom of my heart. One follow up question though. "I would do the perimeter with hardwood or parquet and then the interior with laminate." How do you suggest I make the transition from wood to laminate? By simply gluing that first plank and the edges?

Thanks a million.
Michelle

Dec 5, 2008 2:33 AM

Guest :

I was told to lay the flooring then install the cabinets. Because the cabinets would set lower a lot if using thick flooring.

Dec 7, 2008 7:18 AM

Guest :

HI, I am redoing laminate floors in my house due to a washing machine overflow. I have an open floor plan where my foyer leads to the den that leads to the kitchen that leads to the living and dining that leads back to the foyer. The kitchen is open to the dining and the den. I dont know if we should lay the planks all to go the same way thus creating the floors to go long ways in one room and across in the other room. Should we transition them and have them go different directions? Would it make one room look long and the other short? Please help,
Tanya

Dec 7, 2008 8:22 PM

Guest :

I gather you start with the longest board. Is there a method you use to offset each course evenly?

Dec 8, 2008 10:55 AM

Guest :

I am currently having laminate flooring installed throughout my downstairs. The flooring is one that already has the padding (very thin i might add). We are using a moisture barrier between the concrete and the floors. The bedroom is completed and it sounds very hollow. I found a underlayment that is suppose to help with sound, mositure and vibration. Is is ok to install this underlayment with laminate flooring that already has padding?

Dec 9, 2008 3:21 AM

Guest :

I have a rectangular room where three-fourths is laminate and one-fourth is carpet. There is a straight transition piece that separates the two areas. Cuts made to the planks were made across the width, not the length. What I want to do is to replace the carpet with laminate (matching style, of course) and have it connect seamlessly with the existing floor. I understand I have to remove the cut pieces. However, is it possible to lay the floor without having to remove ALL of the existing planks?
If not, is it possible to use a transition piece that's not too distracting or looks really out of place? Advice/suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Dec 9, 2008 4:03 PM

Guest :

Should cabinets be installed first or the laminate layed first? So you need to lay a woof underlayment over the sub floor before laying laminate?

Dec 13, 2008 9:54 AM

Guest :

hello,
I liked reading these posts they were very informative!
I do have a questions that I don't think is addressed above: the room we have is about 10x11 ft, which is a 4 season room built on a concrete slab. The challenge I have is that 3 walls have baseboard heating that is installed right on the slab (right now linoleum covered...).

I can remove the linoleum, but how would it be best to finish the laminate floor against the heaters?

Thanks in advance.

Dec 27, 2008 5:29 PM

Guest :

just moved into new home,replaced carpet due to water damage from storm,and would like to replace carpet with laminated wood floors,is there any way that i can get away from taking off the baseboards.

Dec 28, 2008 9:31 AM

Kelly Smith :

Hi, you can leave the old base on as long as the storm didn't damage it. But since the laminate needs a 1/4" gap from the wall, you'll have to nail some trim at the bottom of the old base.

Dec 28, 2008 1:20 PM

Guest :

Hi Kelly

Ok so I have read over the entire thread and I still have a question. I want to install laminate in a dry basement. It had old carpet which I removed. Can I leave the really thin under pad that is glued to the floor on and put a vapour barrier over it and then lay the laminate? I know you suggested removing the under pad but it is really glued down. I figured since it is in great condition and fairly thin I could tape a barrier over it and then lay the floor. Can I do this?

Thanks
Tracy Niagara Falls Canada

Dec 28, 2008 8:02 PM

Guest :

I have a very large area that I want to use laminate on (new construction wood subfloor). Information on the website of the laminate we are considering mentions that it is necessary to leave "expansion joints" if the area is longer/wider than 24 feet. Is this really a requirement? We would prefer not to have to use transition strips (to hide extra expansion joints) in the middle of a room if this is not really necessary.

Dec 30, 2008 6:03 AM

Kelly Smith :

VAPOR BARRIER QUESTION: I personally wouldn't use the carpet padding. Even though it's glued down, it should be easy to scrape up. Not using the proper underlayment would most likely void the warranty.

Dec 30, 2008 6:10 AM

Kelly Smith :

EXPANSION JOINT QUESTION: Yes, some manufacturers do recommend adding a joint in larger areas. The reason has to do with humidity. If it rises too much, the 1/4" gap at the walls won't be enough for expansion. This is why it's so important to let the flooring acclimate for a few days prior to installation.

Dec 30, 2008 6:18 AM

Guest :

Someone had previously asked but must have been overlooked. Do you cut the base of the door frame so the laminate go under the frame? THanks!!!!

Dec 30, 2008 9:48 AM

Guest :

I'm installing laminate all over my condo, but i'm being discouraged by semi professionals re installing it in the entrance hallways bc of likelihood of water (and other) damage (due to people coming in with dirty/wet shoes. I always thought that laminate was pretty durable in that sense and therefore, it's ok to install in hallway entrance as well as in the kitchen (my mom has had it in her hallway/kitchen for 5 years and it's ok). please advise.

Dec 30, 2008 10:02 AM

Kelly Smith :

DOOR FRAME QUESTION: Yes, the door frame should be cut with a coping saw. If you go to my Home Renovation/Repair topic page and scroll all the way down, click on " All feature articles in Home Renovation/Repair" you will find an article on Laminate Flooring Installation Tips. That will help you out.

Dec 30, 2008 10:05 AM

Kelly Smith :

FLOOR DURABILITY QUESTION: Yes you can install it almost anywhere. You do want to keep water from pooling on it and only damp mop it, not wet mop. The only room that I strictly advise against is the bathroom.

Dec 30, 2008 10:08 AM

Guest :

Question about transition from wood to carpet........ What's the best way to make sure the carpet doesn't come up when the molding is laid between the wood and the carpet?

Thank you

Dec 30, 2008 10:14 AM

Kelly Smith :

To make a carpet to laminate transition, nail down tack strip (you can find it anywhere carpet is sold). Leave the same gap as you would on any other transition. Then stretch the carpet and hook it to the tack strip. The install the molding. Done!

Dec 30, 2008 10:52 AM

Guest :

Question about transition from wood to carpet........ What's the best way to make sure the carpet doesn't come up when the molding is laid between the wood and the carpet?

Thank you

Jan 2, 2009 11:52 AM

Guest :

Greetings I'm going to install laminate flooring in my livivg room and hall way would i treat it as one floor or do them seperatly

Jan 4, 2009 9:30 AM

Kelly Smith :

That's basically personal preference. I would treat both rooms as one continuous floor, unless it would look better to change the direction at the transition. For example, planks running parallel to hall walls make it look longer; the other direction, wider.

Jan 4, 2009 1:53 PM

Guest :

I would like to lay a laminate floor, but not all in straight lines. First, I would like to have my first pieces in a square, about 3 feet from the centre. Then I would like to lay the rest of the floor in a diamond shape so that, inside the square that I have done, I will lay the laminate at a 45 degree angle to the square (half of the laminate will go in one direction, half will go 90 degrees to the other - creating the diamond effect).
Then, I would like to continue the diamond effect on the outside of the square, following the same pattern as inside the square.
My laminate is about 7.5" wide.
What would you recommend first, for holding the square in place (there is essentially no groove for the tongue to hold onto), and second, for holding the flooring in the diamond pattern where the boards meet at 90 degrees?

Jan 4, 2009 7:30 PM

Guest :

Kelly - thank you for your detailed instructions above. I do have one question that I did not see asked. Does it matter if you lay the laminate in the same direction of the joists? I have a 10x15 room and really want to install the laminate down the longest wall, but I have heard that you need to install it opposite of how the joist run for strength.

Thank you in advance for your advise.

Amy

Jan 5, 2009 7:25 PM

Kelly Smith :

SQUARE AND DIAMOND PATTERN QUESTION: Wow, that would be a great looking floor! For something that intricate I would really recommend a hardwood floor. The problem being, although it's possible to bend the rules a bit with laminate, it really depends on hooking together because it's a floating system.

But... (you knew that was coming, right?), the only way I can see it working is to make each "section" its own floor. That means you'll have to have transition trim between each section. It should work fine if you don't mind the slight elevation at each transition.

If I were to do something like that, I would first lay out the pattern on the floor, then nail down the receiving parts of the transitions, then install the underlayment in each section, and finally fill in the laminate, being sure to leave the 1/4" gap at every transition as well as the walls. That would be a sharp looking floor.

Jan 5, 2009 7:36 PM

Kelly Smith :

Hi Amy, thanks for the question. It doesn't really matter which direction you run the planks. Your subfloor should be strong enough for the laminate. In any event, the planks aren't stiff enough to lend any strength of their own.

I'm assuming you have a plywood (or some other sheet wood product) subfloor. Do you feel a flex when you walk on it? If so, it needs to be beefed up for ANY type of finish floor. If it's up to code, it should be fine though.

Jan 6, 2009 2:47 PM

Guest :

I had a contractor install bamboo flooring and when he lefe he said I just had to polish it up. I've tried everything but cannot get his fingerprints off. Perhaps it is residue from the glue he used, but he has not returned my calls. Any suggestions, besides throwing a rug over it? Mary Lee

Jan 7, 2009 7:48 AM

Guest :

I want to lay about a 1000sf of laminate over cermanic tile. Do I need to float all of the grout joints? The tile is not completely smooth. Removing the tile I think is out of the question.

Jan 7, 2009 10:47 AM

Guest :

I'm installing laminate by an exterior door that is a high-traffic area and gets wet from shoes, especially in the winter. Is there anything you can recommend to use in this area that would protect the floor and not fade or damage the laminate? Moping with damp mop would be hard to keep up with, as it would need to be done every time the door opens. Thanks.

Jan 8, 2009 7:13 AM

Guest :

I am installing laminate over plywood. As i removed the carpet i noticed in a small area i have a big bump in my floor. I'm guessing its from a spilled drink that absorbed through the carpet into the plywood. How do i maike this level? buff it down or use quick level mix on top of my plywood? I also noticed that on the right side of my hall way it slopes down a little towards the wall. How do i level this or should i keep it the way it is? Thank you.
Melinda

Jan 9, 2009 12:36 PM

Guest :

should i start with a whole peice or cut it in half

Jan 9, 2009 7:20 PM

Guest :

Happy New Year Kelly! My living room is half Pergo and half carpet with about a 15-degree angled seam between the two. The Pergo is 9-years old and has glued joints. I want to replace the carpet with laminate (I found the perfect match to the existing Pergo) but I don't want a T-strip separating the two portions. Is it possible to break the glued joint, remove the planks with the angled cut and join the new laminate to the old? I don't want to replace the existing Pergo since it is in great shape and runs through the rest of the house. Thanks for your help.

Jan 11, 2009 11:17 PM

Guest :

This website is a great find! (thumbs up!)--Just reading thru the comments have answered most questions, but I still have a couple. Kitchen remodel in a mobile home, new cabinets and laminate floor, about a 10 x 12 area is all. I was planning on going wall-to-wall with the laminate while everything's out, but you say you prefer to put cabs in first, then flooring. I AM concerned with all the weight of the cabs and appliances creating a problem with expansion and contraction. Also, if the sink and/or dishwasher should spring a leak, it seems it would be better to have it not leak directly onto the laminate. Are my concerns valid? I'm anxious to get the flooring down, but waiting and doing it last is fine (not to mention cheaper, I'll use a lot less flooring!)
My second concern is the transitioning. I'm moving the fridge from one end near a wall to the other end, which is now part of the carpeted dining area, and I want/need laminate under it. The far end of the fridge will be about 5' beyond the end of the opposite wall... If I extend all of the new floor from the far end of the fridge straight out to the plane of the opposite wall, the transition will be almost exactly centered in the 'walkway' between the living and dining/kitchen area, and would also substantially shorten the dining area (the end chair would be on new floor, all others on carpet). So I need to either (A) have the new floor come out about 2' in front of the fridge, then make 2 right angle transitions, (B) instead of 2 right angle transitions, at the 2' point just make a straight transition at an angle to the other wall, or (C) at the 2' point make a CURVED transition to the other wall. My parents house has a similar situation with a curved transition from carpet to vinyl. Are there some sort of bendable transition strips available that could be used with laminate?
If not, is it okay to simply miter cut the transition strips as needed to make the angles I need?
(sorry for the length!)
thanks in advance! :)

Jan 12, 2009 10:05 AM

Guest :

I bought some of that "exotic" laminate that is 1" thick and has the pad already attached. I tried everything under the sun, but inevitably, every 3rd row or so would not lay flat. I tried everything I could think of: resnapping, hammering, different pieces, etc. Nothing worked. I thought maybe I had a high/low spot in the floor, but it didn't matter where the floor was, same problem. I thought about just going on, but the row was so pitched up that the next row literally would not lock into it. So, I ultimatedly decided that I was just going to use my nail guy and brad-nail it down. It went down with no complications, but, have I created problems for down the road? If so, what can I expect?

Jan 13, 2009 8:16 AM

Kelly Smith :

LAMINATE OVER TILE: I would float the grout joints with a self leveling compound if the joints are wider than 1/8".

Jan 13, 2009 8:20 AM

Kelly Smith :

LAMINATE BY EXTERIOR DOOR: The best thing to do is to put down a mat that will absorb wetness with out transferring through to the laminate. That will make your life a lot easier. I don't recommend coating the floor with any product.

Jan 13, 2009 8:25 AM

Kelly Smith :

MELINDA: This is a plywood subfloor, right? For the "bump", the best thing to do is sand it down. As far as the floor sloping a bit, I wouldn't worry about it.

Jan 13, 2009 8:28 AM

Kelly Smith :

PERGO AND CARPET: This floor is designed to be a floating floor so it shouldn't be connected to the older Pergo. Can it be done? Yes, but it would likely void your warranty.

Jan 13, 2009 8:38 AM

Kelly Smith :

MOBILE HOME KITCHEN REMODEL: I prefer to run the floor up to the cabinets rather than under them. Like you say, you'll save on material. And you're right about leaks. If you ever had to replace some flooring, the repair is much easier.

For the transitions, I would go with A, but that's just me. You might check with your floor store to see if they can get some radius molding; I've never worked with it.

Jan 13, 2009 8:43 AM

Kelly Smith :

EVERY THIRD PLANK: Since it is happening on every third plank, I would suspect you got some bad material and would have returned it. But if you've nailed it down, that's out of the question now.

Will it give you grief in the future? Hopefully not. Just avoid any spills.

Jan 14, 2009 9:14 AM

Guest :

Regarding underlayment pad: We have used the white foam pad in previous flooring. There is now another kind, which seems to have a grey looking insulation padding with a blue plastic topping on it. This is supposed to be good for insulation on chilly floors, as well as i presume...sound insulation. We are installing laminate in an upper bedroom of a two storey house. I'm wondering if this new underlayment would be better to keep the chill off the floor or is that underlayment used mainly in a basement?? Thanks for your help.

Jan 17, 2009 7:54 PM

Guest :

We're building and want laminate flooring in four rooms that are 30'6" at it's longest and 41'2" at it's widest. It's our foyer, great room, kitchen, and dinning in an open layout out. Is a T Mold required because of the long length of flooring between rooms? I've received different answers from different sales people at our local home improvement stores. We were hoping to put the floor down without the molding. Thanks for your help.

Jan 19, 2009 6:42 AM

Kelly Smith :

The gray underlayment with the blue vapor barrier is what I use. All the homes in my area have concrete slab foundations and it works quite well.

Jan 19, 2009 6:46 AM

Kelly Smith :

Most manufacturers do recommend adding an additional molding in rooms this large. The reason is to provide an expansion joint because this is a floating type floor and expansion/contraction could cause bowing out in the field.

Jan 21, 2009 8:52 AM

Guest :

I've read through the posts, & see you recommend butting the laminate up to existing cupboards in kitchens, & I agree. But what about under the dishwasher? A friend in the plumbing business said they have had to tear up numerous client's new kitchen flooring (tile, etc) to replace a non-working dishwasher since, once the replacement flooring has been installed (without moving the dishwasher & installing the new flooring under it), they can't get the appliance out.

Jan 21, 2009 1:06 PM

Guest :

Hello,
I just removed 5 year old carpet. Can I use the pink padding that is already down under the carpet to install laminate Pergo flooring? If not suggested, why?
Thanks, Jim

Jan 22, 2009 8:37 PM

mariediy :

Hello,
I am a TOTAL beginner, but I have finished laying some laminate and it looks pretty good.

Here are my questions:
Do I remove the spacers before placing the toe kick? Is the toe kick the same as the base board (and is that the same as the skirting board)? I wonder if they are all the same thing?

Do I put anything into the space between the wall and the laminate? EG: There is special wood coloured acrylic filler on sale in the laminate section of the store (for use in a pump dispenser). What is that filler for? I thought maybe for filling the gap before placing the kickboard (I am guessing that it is flexible and will retract and expand with the laminate).

From your site I understand that the gap should be left, but wont the laminate come apart over time if that gap is left?
Thanks in advance

Jan 23, 2009 1:31 AM

Guest :

do you have to put underlay dpwn or can you do without ?

Jan 23, 2009 5:45 AM

mariediy :

Another question is that on an old part of laminate flooring that was put down a few years ago there is a hole (that does not go all the way through), but it needs to be filled. It is about 1 and a half inches diameter (caused by somenone pivoting a fridge to move it into place). What is the best product to fill it with? It will have people walking on it (normal household wear)and the floor is cleaned relativeley often. Thank you in advance for any ideas that will help.

Jan 24, 2009 10:44 AM

Guest :

Can I install laminate in a room where I have to move furniture to one side and then back on top of the installed laminate?

Jan 27, 2009 4:13 AM

Kelly Smith :

Hi Marie,
Yes, you should remove the spacers. This won't have any effect; the planks will not come apart. As for the baseboard, those other terms you mention are probably the same thing. Did you read that in the instructions? Perhaps it the flooring was manufactured in a different country, they use different terminology.

As for the filler for the hole, can you cut a plug for it out of some scrap laminate? That would be the best solution. You could then "glue" it in place with a bit of the color-matching sealer.

Feb 1, 2009 6:04 AM

Guest :

Hello,

I am installing a floating laminate floor in my new home and I need advice: Can I install my Napoleon Propane Corner Fireplace on top of the laminate flooring?

Thank you!

Feb 1, 2009 8:28 AM

Kelly Smith :

It would be preferable to install the fireplace first and then the floor.

Feb 1, 2009 9:45 PM

Guest :

I want to install laminate floor in a hall that is narrower than the length of the planks. This side walls in this hall angle half way, and as such it would be much easier to install perpendicular to the side walls. I have heard this can leave a ladder affect, which doesn't bother me too much. I am just wondering how the floor would look if I made all the rows one peice (so their would be only long seams, no short perpendicular seams.) Has anyone tried this, how does it look?

Tony

Feb 2, 2009 10:48 AM

Kelly Smith :

Tony, I've done this and it looked fine. It's just a matter of preference. On the upside, it sure makes installation easier...

Feb 2, 2009 5:05 PM

Guest :

I nee to have about 700 sq ft of flooring installed into a hall, living room, and three bedrooms. What would be an approx. labor cost for this work?

Feb 4, 2009 4:27 AM

Kelly Smith :

LABOR COST: Installation labor cost varies by area. It would be reasonable to expect anywhere from $1 to $5 per square foot. But it could vary from that.

Feb 4, 2009 11:59 AM

Guest :

Hi there, my question is regarding molding - we have about 125 ft. of wall to cover, some of that includes cabinetry. Do I have to use wall base AND quarter round together or can I just use a quarter round?

Feb 5, 2009 7:27 AM

Kelly Smith :

The 5 cent answer is that you can use base board, quarter round or both. It's all personal preference. I like to use a plain baseboard and add quarter round at the bottom to give it a bit more three dimensional look.

Feb 6, 2009 6:56 AM

Guest :

We are installing wood looking laminate flooring in an upper bedroom with a wood subfloor. Because this room attaches to an unheated garage, the room is cold. I fear the flooring will be like ice. Instead of trying to install wiring to heat the floor, would it be okay to put two layers of the white foam padding down for extra insulation or is there something else we should use???? Thanks in advance!

Feb 9, 2009 6:32 AM

Kelly Smith :

In general, only one layer of underlayment is recommended. But there are so many manufacturers, the best thing to do is check with the one you buy from; their recommendations may be different.

Feb 10, 2009 11:52 AM

Guest :

How do you recommend laying laminate wood flooring in a kitchen with an Island in the middle?

Feb 11, 2009 9:50 AM

Richard :

Transition Molding: I am planning to put in laminate floor in my kitchen over its existing linoleum. The kitchen is connected to the living room by two doorways. Due to the linoleum, the floor will not be even height at the transition area. What kind of molding should I use to make the transition? Thanks.

Feb 13, 2009 11:05 AM

Guest :

Can I lay laminate flooring on a heated cement floor? The concrete floor is level.

Feb 13, 2009 7:49 PM

Guest :

I want to install laminate flooring in the dining room, and I have a step between dining and living room. I want to use a stair nose. From where I should start laying, from the step, or from the oposite direction? Thanks

Feb 15, 2009 9:01 PM

Guest :

I have read the following:
'Do not continue the installation of laminate flooring through a doorway that is less than 48 inches in width, use a transition molding'
Is this the case? I am planning to do a large living room through doorways into the hall (doorways are 32 inches)
Thanks
Joel

Feb 18, 2009 9:37 AM

Guest :

When installing laminate flooring are you suppose to do it piece by piece or row by row?

Feb 18, 2009 6:57 PM

Guest :

I wanted to install laminate flooring in my kitchen. At first it sounded like an easy diy project but I am having second thoughts. The area to be covered is approximately 8x10. The problem is that the floor is uneven. It is an old house and the floor is solid (no flexing). I have examined the area underneath from the basement and can see no obvious reason for the raised area. The high "hump" looks to me to be too high to be removed by sanding. Do you have any suggestions or solutions to offer before I give up on this project? Thank you.

Feb 19, 2009 4:15 AM

Kelly Smith :

Generally, build a row by locking planks on the short ends, and then lock the row to the previous one.

Feb 19, 2009 4:18 AM

Kelly Smith :

You'll need to have a level surface before laying the floor. What is the subfloor made of? Plywood?

Feb 20, 2009 1:55 PM

Guest :

I have learned so much from this thread. Thanks Kelley!

I want to add laminate in PART of a basement room. Is this possible? The floor is cement slab. (The room is 25x10 but I only want the laminate in the back part of the room, say a 10x10 section.)

Michelle

Feb 20, 2009 4:48 PM

Guest :

Awesome site. 2 questions...

1. Part of the area I want to put flooring on is covered in carpet and part in lanolium. Obviously the carpet has to come up, but will the thickness differance between the bare floor and the lanolium be a problem? I was going to use flooring with pre-attached underlay.

2. I want to do my staircase as well. How??? I have seen edges for stairs and assume that using that and the flooring for each tread works, but how do I deal with the riser?

Thanks for the help. Great site!

Feb 20, 2009 6:18 PM

Guest :

Can I install new laminate flooring over existing laminate flooring?

Feb 20, 2009 8:17 PM

Guest :

we are going to install laminate in our kitchen. it will be a complete remodel. do we install it under the dishwasher? if not how do we get it out to replace with a granite counter sitting onit? also is it ok for the frig to sit on the laminate? and what about going around an island--either way you go you'll have pieces on the sides that have to line up when you get to the opposite end--any idea's. Thanks, Jim

Feb 21, 2009 2:19 PM

Guest :

What is a pulling bar and how do you use it?

Feb 21, 2009 4:57 PM

Guest :

I want to install laminate floor in my bedroom but the floor is currently very uneven. How do I go about evening the floor first? This is my upstairs so I need to even over the soft subfloor.

Feb 22, 2009 8:41 AM

Kelly Smith :

Michelle, you should be able to install on part of the room. You'll just need to finish the edge with the proper transition molding. Every manufacturer has their own but most have a style to do this.

Feb 22, 2009 9:04 AM

Kelly Smith :

TWO QUESTIONS:
1.The linoleum is probably only 1/8" thick? Try using a self-leveling compound to gradually float it out far enough so that even though it is not exactly level, the tapering off is flat enough to be negligible.
2. Hard to say without seeing it, but if the part of the stair riser being attaching to is wood, try using paneling nails to tack it up. They're like small finish nails, but colored, so a good match is possible.

Feb 22, 2009 9:06 AM

Kelly Smith :

You can add laminate over laminate as long as it doesn't create a height issue.

Feb 22, 2009 9:16 AM

Kelly Smith :

Hi Jim,
I don't like to put the laminate under anything because the weight tends to pin it down which violates the floating floor concept. As far as going around an island, just lay the planks up to one side, notching it if it falls that way, and the work it around the sides. It should match up perfectly on the far side, since the plank dimensions are so consistent.

Feb 22, 2009 9:23 AM

Kelly Smith :

A pull bar is a special tool for these types of floors. It's designed to hook onto the plank on one end of the bar and has an angle on the other end to tap with a mallet. This snugs things up and ensures that the planks are completely snapped together. I like to use the bar on when I finish a run and then "walk" the run just to be sure.

Feb 24, 2009 9:15 AM

Guest :

I am installing laminate in more than one room, when i have to go the other way what do i use to connect the flooring together? secondly, can i leave the base board down and go over the flooring with some shoe mold?

Feb 24, 2009 9:53 AM

Phil Hale :

I've installed laminate on 3 different projects. I read up on how to do it, took the time to level the floor and the results were great. We just moved into a new home and it appears the installers did not take the time to properly level the concrete floor in basement before installing the laminate. There is a low spot right where the hallway enters the large rec room. It's extremely annoying every time we walk into the room and step on this dip. It is a click lock flooring, but before I get into the big task of removing the based boards and flooring to fix this low spot, I'm trying to tink of a way to fix it without removing everything. I have a couple of ideas but was hoping someone has also fixed this sort of problem without removing flooring and can suggest what to do. My current toughts;
1. cut a half inch hole in centre of dip area, insert short length of tubing and pour a fine washed sand into the tube. Then use air compressor to apply slight air pressure to blow sand into the low cavity under the floor (and under the underlay) I would also lay some 2x10's over the floor with weight to avoid the sand raising floor. Plug hole and color to match.
2. Same as above but use a very liquid floor leveler instead of sand (no air pressure)

Will this work? Any other suggestions?
My thought is I could try this and if it doesn't work then remove flooring and level the floor the traditional way

Feb 24, 2009 10:12 AM

Kelly Smith :

MORE THAN 1 ROOM: Just use transition molding where the directions change. You can leave the old baseboard up and use shoe mold but it's not really a good building practice. Better to remove the old base.

Feb 24, 2009 10:20 AM

Kelly Smith :

Phil, I wouldn't recommend using either plug 'n pour methods. With the sand, it would be difficult to level and might shift over time. Plus, the abrasive nature of the sand would compromise the vapor barrier.

With respect to liquid floor levelers, these types of floors are not supposed to have contact with liquid from below. That's why the underlayment incorporates a vapor barrier.

You said it's a new home? The best bet is to hold them responsible via the warranty. Otherwise, some disassembly is in order.

Feb 24, 2009 12:08 PM

Guest :

In answer to the post, "we are going to install laminate in our kitchen. it will be a complete remodel. do we install it under the dishwasher?", you replied "I don't like to put the laminate under anything because the weight tends to pin it down which violates the floating floor concept."

I am planning to do my kitchen as well. Does that mean I shouldn't use the flooring under the Stove, Fridge, and Dishwasher?? If so, what should to treat these areas?

Thanks for all the help. This is great!

Feb 26, 2009 1:46 PM

Guest :

Hello
I am laying laminate in two bedrooms and then two hallways that run different directions. I have figured out how to go through all the doorways without having to use transitions (although I am starting to think it would be much easier to use them:)My question is..... as I come down the narrow hallway, I am laying the flooring in a way that to stagger the joints, I am using one full length of laminate and then I would have to cut pieces so that i am using two 20 inch pieces. This seems like it would be less stable instead of more stable and definitely more wasteful. Is it ever acceptable to just lay them down without staggering them like this? In other words just use them all the same length of the hallway?

Feb 26, 2009 6:40 PM

Guest :

We are installing laminant flooring throughout the entire house. We started in the kitchen ( which is in the middle of the house) because we were doing some remodeling too. The back part of the house will cause us to be laying the floor backwards, meaning snapping under instead of over. We will have a door way as a stopping point and want to turn the floor back the other direction but want to know if there is a piece that will snap the two together so our flow will be easier with the over snap for the back side of the house. Do you have a suggestion

Feb 27, 2009 9:13 AM

Kelly Smith :

Joint staggering question: You should always stagger your joints. Make a complete run of planks (the long way) and usually you can start the next run with the drop-off (what's left of the plank you cut to finish the previous run).

Of course, in a narrow hallway, where the width of the hall is shorter than the length of the plank, and your runs are going the short way, then you wouldn't have to have joints on the end of planks. This would probably waste material, though.

Feb 27, 2009 9:18 AM

Kelly Smith :

Doorway stopping point question: The easiest way to do this is just leave the proper gap between the two different-direction floors and install transition molding.

Mar 1, 2009 6:57 PM

Guest :

I purchased laminate flooring from lumber liquidaters. They said that if your floors are above grade, you dont need a moisture barrier. Im installing over concrete and because of this advise I did not get the moisture barrier. Was this a bad choice?

Mar 2, 2009 10:02 AM

Guest :

My toilet overflowed and water leaked under my 48x8 laminate flooring strips in about 1/4 of my condo. Took off the molding and applied pressure on the floor to push the water to the edge where I'd try and soak up the standing water. There was enough water that I that could hear and feel it under the laminate, and could see water coming up between a number planks. In the end I was able to absorb a fair bit of water, as there is no longer 'squishing' under the floor. However, the laminate has lifted along the seams in many planks.

Should I expect the lifting of the damaged laminate to reduce over time?
Should I be concerned about mold or other unseen issues, or will the excess water evaporate?
Can I simply replace the damaged planks or does the whole floor need doing?

Mar 2, 2009 11:02 AM

Kelly Smith :

Above grade and moisture barriers: When they said above grade they used the wrong term. Concrete slabs are above grade as well but I think they meant on a plywood or engineered wood subfloor. That would be out of contact with the soil in a humidity controlled environment.

On a slab though, it's normal for some moisture to wick up, so there you do need a vapor barrier.

Mar 2, 2009 11:08 AM

Kelly Smith :

Overflowed toilet: You're going to have pull it all up, let the subfloor dry thoroughly, and go back with new underlayment and laminate. The edges of the planks will just dry and remain curled up.

Also, as you thought, there's the possibility of mold and mildew under the planks and on the underlayment. That's a potential health concern.

Your insurance might cover this though; check on it.

Mar 2, 2009 12:37 PM

Guest :

I will be installing a laminate floor in my kitchen over a peel and stick tile floor. The transitions look to be fine. Do I need an underlayment or can I put the laminate floor directly on the old floor? What would happen if I do not use the underlayment?

Mar 2, 2009 5:51 PM

Kelly Smith :

Installation over a peel and stick floor: While in theory you could lay it over the tile without underlayment, it's not recommended. The underlayment bridges small surface imperfections, allows the planks to float as designed, and muffle sound. It's well worth the small additional expense to do it right.

Mar 3, 2009 7:04 PM

Guest :

I have a 1918 home that has 9inch high baseboards and plaster and lathe walls. Can I install laminate floors without removing babseboards and just install quartyer round to cover gap

Mar 4, 2009 11:43 PM

Guest :

Wonderful site! I am about to lay some laminate flooring in my living room area. The problem I am having is that, after measuring, the laminate will be about 1/4 inch higher than the tile in the kitchen. The "T" strips won't work as a transition becuase of the height difference and the reducer strip does not look like it will work either, though the guy at Lumber Liquidators told me that is what to use. It looks as though one side of the reducer will barely be tall enough for the laminate and the other side looks to curve down to the bottom of the track. Do I need to trim off part of the reducer to make it work or do I need to find some way to install the track level with the tile? I am confused as to how a reducer transitions from one height to another when it looks as though it can only transition something down to the height of the bottom of the track? Thanks in advance for any advice, pictures, or videos.

Mar 5, 2009 9:56 AM

Guest :

Hello:
I am looking at putting Laminate in my basement rec room. I have a very low looped pile carpet which seems pretty solid and not much give, can I instal laminate right over this or will it cause problems?
The room is about 40' x 15' with two enterance ways along the 40' walls. I assume that it makes sense to run the planks 90 degrees to the door openings and deal with the long runs of planks?
Thanks your help with these questions.

Mar 5, 2009 12:56 PM

Guest :

I have removed carpet and have a padding left. Do I keep it to install the laminate floor or will I need to buy a different padding type? thank you.

Mar 8, 2009 2:52 PM

Guest :

I have an add on that is 1/8" shorter do i lay underlayment on the taller side and is underlayment always needed?

Mar 8, 2009 4:46 PM

Guest :

Hey Kelly, great site here. My question is, I have two bedrooms at each end of a hall, when leaving the hall into the bedrooms, do I HAVE to stop at the doorway, put in a t-mold transition, then continue? If I undercut the doorjambs and leave my 1/4" expansion joint shouldn't everything work out. The planks will run straight through the doorway,(w/ 1/4 on either side), they will not be "laddered" into the rooms. Thanks soo much Bill.

Mar 8, 2009 4:51 PM

Guest :

I am getting ready to put down laminate flooring and am trying to figure out what kind of underlayment I need. I have a concrete slab and don't want that hollow sound. The guy told me they had one for a $1 more a square foot. I am wondering if I really need this. Do I just get the regular? How is it measured? What is enough?
Thanks
Kris

Mar 9, 2009 4:03 AM

Kelly Smith :

Bill, just go right through the doorway, should work fine. It always does going into closets. Any other room should be the same.. unless, your manufacturer says otherwise.

Mar 9, 2009 4:09 AM

Kelly Smith :

Kris,
I usually buy Armstrong and at the dealer they offer the standard and the extra thick. The thicker one is a little bit more expensive but worth it ,IMO. It comes in rolls that are easy to work with.

Mar 9, 2009 9:19 AM

Guest :

my click floor is shifting in a 4th level bdrm? I thoroughly investigated install procedures. Its been in for 2 wks & sat on another floor (2nd level of a backsplit) for 2 wks, but I brought it up as I used it)
we are in Ont Canada- I never have temperature over 62 degrees- & I don't run humidifiers
Also, the spacers would lean forward & not sit straight up because there is a gap under drywall to floor

Mar 10, 2009 10:11 AM

Guest :

This site is great. I am removing old viny in dining area but there are still a lot of left over adhesive. First question is can i put underlayment on top of adhesive then install laminate w/out totally remove all residue since i bought my laminate at costco and it came w/foam padding. My second question is that there is an additional piece of plywood in my dining area when they installed vinyl so there is a gap about 5/16" between living room and dining room. I know i can just use a reducer type molding but that would not look very good. Or should i just add 5/16" plywood in living room and hall way to make it all flush. Thank you, Long

Mar 11, 2009 7:25 AM

Guest :

Hi Kelly
Same as most here glad I found this site ,, you are full of help full tips.

we are planning on installing laminate flooring in Kitchen, attached laundry room, hall, entrance way and attached bath room,,, we have never installed before,, so kind of apprehensive to try it as we want the same through out in all the areas.
So here is the questions,,, Can we just star in one area and the work forward and backward from there ?

The kid of laminate is a click lock with attached under padding going over a vinyl floor that is in great smooth condition.

Thanks Ralph

Mar 11, 2009 7:34 AM

Guest :

Dear Kelly Smith: so glad we found this site! We are about to lay laminate floor in the family room (approx. 13' X 15'). In one corner of the room (and facing the room, of course), embedded in a wall and flush into the wall itself, there is a gas fireplace whose lower edge is approx. 6" above the floor level (cement floor). Drywall surrounds the fireplace. No hearth. The laminate instructions specify not to lay it in areas where the temperature would be above 85 F. Of course, on the floor right in front of the fireplace, the temps will be above 85 F due to the fan of the gas fireplace that blows the warm air onto the floor. City code would allow us to place the laminate to butt up to the wall where the gas fireplace is. Currently we have Berber carpeting butting up to the wall, and it gets warm, but no problems. For the past couple of nights, we have set 5 laminate planks on top of the carpet to see how hot is gets there, our thermometers read 100 F at the hottest point (about 1.5' out from the fireplace wall itself, into the family room area). Question: may we lay the laminate all the way to the wall in which the gas fireplace is embedded (like we have the carpet now)? Or must we lay a tile hearth in front of the fireplace (maybe 18") so that the laminate would not butt directly against the gas fireplace wall? Our concerns are 1) long-term aesthetics of the laminate planks if exposed to too much heat in that section of the floor, and 2) fire hazards, of course. Again, city code would allow for the laminate to go all the way to the fireplace wall. Thank you so much for your help.

Mar 11, 2009 8:50 AM

Guest :

Greg:
I want to install laminate flooring just in the hallway of our second story. I know about the transitions strips that need to be installed going into the bedrooms but what do I do about where the new floor meets the top of the stairs? Is that a transition strip as well?

Mar 11, 2009 9:06 AM

Guest :

Hi Kelly,

I started installing laminate floors for an 800 sqft project. Unfortunately, I didn't leave the recommended 8-10mm expansion joint because I thought the gap was too big (most joints are ~3mm). What is the major issue with improperly measured expansion joints? Also, is there a way I can increase the expansion joints without starting over?

Kelly D.

Mar 11, 2009 12:32 PM

Guest :

Kelly,
Transitioning laminate to a cut piece of carpet? I have installed the "T" molding track. The carpet and the laminate butts up to the track. But, how do a secure the carpet from coming loose under the "T" molding? Tack strip? I'm afraid that the tack strip is too wide and some will be exposed? Thanks Chris M.

Mar 12, 2009 7:00 AM

Guest :

Kelly:
Great site! but why do you only reply to some questions and seem to ignore others?

Mar 12, 2009 5:22 PM

Guest :

I'm confused if we should remove the old vinyl squares or not to remove the old vinyl squares in our kitchen before putting down the laminate. we have old vinyl squares in the kitchen some are coming up because the floor getting wet we do have concret under the vinyl squares our contractor told me he was not going to remove the vinyl squares because it can be used as a moisture barrier under the floating floor.we are having 12mm laminate flooring with floating floor and sound proof moisture shield.I thought all that old stuff had to be removed and the concret floor had to be prepared for the laminate flooring.

Mar 13, 2009 6:05 AM

Kelly Smith :

Long, Your question about the adhesive left over from the vinyl is one that vexes many people since the adhesive or mastic can be a headache. If your planks are the type that have the underlayment pre-installed on the back, all the adhesive will have to be removed so the floor will not stick and will float as designed.

Can you just lay new underlayment over the adhesive and then lay the floor? Theoretically, yes. But, and here's the catch, there may be chemicals in the mastic that will biodegrade the underlayment material over time. No way to tell for sure without seeing the MSDS, so that's not an option. You should get it up. Try a citrus-based solvent; they are very effective.

As for the plywood, you are saying it makes the dining room floor slightly higher, yes? Did they add it to make the dining room level with the living room floor? If so, either of your suggestions would work. Or, if the dining room plywood was added over the subfloor, you could just take that up instead. It might be less work and certainly less expense.

Mar 13, 2009 6:08 AM

Kelly Smith :

Mar 13, 2009 6:16 AM

Kelly Smith :

Hi Ralph, Yep, you've got the right idea; start against one wall and work it throughout the project space. Just eyeball the whole situation to find the best place to begin, best place to end, and the best direction to align the planks.

First, it wouldn't hurt to read my article on installation tips; these are lessons I learned the hard way when I installed my first one.

To find it, click on my name at the top of the page and then click on "all articles". (The search function on this page doesn't work very well.)

Mar 13, 2009 6:23 AM

Kelly Smith :

Mar 13, 2009 6:28 AM

Kelly Smith :

Gas fireplace question: I think you are right that the long term effect of having the planks close would be aesthetic degradation over time. If it was me, just to be safe, I would lay some tile, slate, or marble on the floor in front of the fireplace. Just out a couple of feet or so. With all the tile shapes and patterns available, you could match the room in an interesting way.

Mar 13, 2009 6:32 AM

Kelly Smith :

Mar 13, 2009 6:35 AM

Kelly Smith :

Hi Greg, yes, the manufacturers make transition molding strips for almost every situation. If you can't find it at your flooring dealer, ask to see their catalog from the manufacturer and have them order it (or do it yourself from the manufacturer's website if possible).

Mar 13, 2009 6:47 AM

Kelly Smith :

Kelly D., The recommended expansion joint sounds about right. That leaves enough room to install transition molding in it with enough room on either side of the track to float.

The reason the manufacturers recommend this expansion joint in larger rooms (usually over 30 feet wide or 9.1 meters) is to keep them from buckling. Although they float, over a large enough distance friction is too much, especially when the weight of the furniture is taken into account.

Certainly you can add one if needed. Not seeing your floor in person, it's hard to spell out exactly what to do, but it could likely be done by cutting the expansion joint out with a router and then installing the transition strip.

Mar 13, 2009 6:53 AM

Kelly Smith :

Chris M., Using the "T" molding, the floors should not butt up against it. Rather, the top of the "T" on either side goes over the finish floor to hide the joint.

Tack strip is what to use to secure the carpet on that side. Do that first, and then the laminate, leaving enough room to install the molding track and the recommended gap.

Mar 13, 2009 7:04 AM

Kelly Smith :

Vinyl removal in kitchen:
The floor can be installed on top of a healthy vinyl tile floor, but if the tiles are coming up because of water, the floor is not healthy. Your contractor is being lazy.

If there is sufficient moisture to float tiles, it will degrade the laminate underlayment, moisture barrier or not. But by the time you see it your contractor will have cashed your check and be long gone, leaving you with a mess.

At this point, the vinyl tiles and adhesive should be taken up and the reason for the water should be addressed and corrected before installing the new floor.

Mar 14, 2009 12:46 PM

Guest :

Hi, great info. I have a few questions:
Over concrete, would I need to lay the underlayment and a separate plastic moisture barrier or does the underlayment suffice for both?

I have exterior metal doors with a metal threshold. I assume that a transition strip is the proper way to install laminate around these doors?

Around the fireplace, I was thinking of a transition strip but then I read that you could undercut the brick. That seems the harder of the two. Which do you recommend?

I am doing the kitchen and great room. Kitchen has linoleum, great room carpet. I was hoping not to have to pull the linoleum, but instead use an additional or thicker pad to make up the diference (roughly 1/8 inch). Is this possible?

Mar 18, 2009 7:09 AM

Kelly Smith :

1. The underlayment generally has the vapor barrier attached to it. When you install it, the vapor barrier side faces up.
2. Yes, you can use a transition molding strip at the door.
3. I certainly wouldn't go to the trouble of undercutting the brick at the fireplace. Seems like that would be a major headache. There are a variety of transition moldings that would work fine.
4. Yes, I prefer the thicker underlayment anyway. It does a much better job of keeping the sound down.

Mar 20, 2009 12:12 PM

Guest :

Hello:
Great site and very helpful!
I am looking at putting Laminate in my basement rec room. I have a very low looped pile carpet which seems pretty solid and not much give, can I instal laminate right over this or will it cause problems?
The room is about 40' x 15' with two enterance ways along the 40' walls. I assume that it makes sense to run the planks 90 degrees to the door openings and deal with the long runs of planks?
Thanks your help with these questions.
Willy

Mar 22, 2009 12:02 PM

Guest :

Hi, great thread, but one question doesn't seem to have been answered. In a kitchen, how do I finish the floor in front of the dishwasher if I haven't put the floor under the dishwasher? There won't be a baseboard or quarter round. Also, same for the fridge. I was planning on installing under the fridge, but this violates the floating concept.

Mar 24, 2009 8:37 PM

Guest :

I installed the laminated floors and quarter rounds in my living room. When I was installing the transition at the end I realized that I had left a bit too much space between the 2 floors that I am transitioning. The transition will leave a small gap. What can I do at this point? Can I cut a strip and glue it at the end to fill the gap before putting in th transition? Any other clever ideas?

Mar 27, 2009 9:00 AM

Guest :

Hi guys - what's the best way to have each laminate plank be in an offset pattern ? Should I just cut a bunch of planks right off the bat at the 2/3 - then I'll end up with a bunch of 1/3 and 2/3 peices that I can make the perfect pattern ? Thanks!

Mar 30, 2009 8:29 PM

Guest :

I'm planning on installing laminate flooring to my entire home. My concern is coming out of one bedroom, down the hall, and into another bedroom. Most laminate has a leading edge for locking. How should I approach this situation? I hate the thought of thresholds in every doorway!

Apr 1, 2009 8:36 AM

Guest :

I have a question regarding a round fire place in the corner of the room. I have installed a laminate floor around the fire place and have left approximately 3/4" around the brick and the floor. I bought some rubber molding to go around the fire place and floor and attempted to use liquid nails to attach the molding between the two. It won't stay down. Any suggestions on another adhesive or another type molding I can use to make this look like a smooth transition?

Apr 1, 2009 10:59 AM

Guest :

I have the same question about the kitchen and refrigerator. I've been told to put it under the fridge, because #1 if you don't, you can't move the fridge later and #2 it looks odd otherwise. If I don't put it under the fridge, what do I do?
Also, do I cut off the snap edge where it meets the walls and any carpet reducers?

Apr 1, 2009 6:27 PM

Guest :

My fiance and I are trying to spruce up his (my future) home. We are wanting to put laminate down, but there are a few issues: The house is rather old and the old wood floor, especially in the kitchen, has a noticeable dip in it. It is covered with linoleum at present. How could we remedy this; or is it even possible? Thank you.

Apr 5, 2009 11:16 AM

Guest :

I am certainly gald that I came across this site.

I will be gutting the bathroom back to paster walls and wooden floor on joists. A total re-tiling job, fitting new WC and Cister, washbasin and shower base and cubicle. I will be laying Aqualoc laminate flooring - recommended for bathrooms. Question: Should I lay laminate first then install WC, handbasin and shower base, or should I lay showerbase (fibreglass) on floorboards and fit laminate floor around it?

Many thanks in anticipation.

Bryan

Apr 6, 2009 11:02 AM

Guest :

Hi just bought laminate flooring .when i have concrete flooring do i need the vaper barrier and why? thanks

Apr 8, 2009 7:07 PM

Guest :

I am trying to install laminate floor, my very 1st...
My question is this:
What do I do or use along the wood base that run along the stair handrail in my hallway, if you know what I am talking about?

My laminate floor is a darker color while the handrail is maple...any suggestion?

Apr 10, 2009 8:48 AM

Guest :

i am laying laminate flooring and i have a question about stagering the planks. the mfg. says 16 inches min.usable pc.what if i only have
5 inchs to complete the roll? im so confused

Apr 10, 2009 11:34 AM

Kelly Smith :

The plans should always be staggered, true. 16" seems a bit excessive to me. Personally, I like 6" as a minimum number and haven't had any problems.

That being said, not doing what the manufacturer recommends will void your warranty.

Apr 23, 2009 6:03 AM

Guest :

I recently bought laminate flooring with attached underlament pad. Is this pad sufficient? Do I need to put down additional underlayment? The attached underlayment seems thinner than regular underlayment pad (looks to be about 1/8").

Apr 23, 2009 2:16 PM

Kelly Smith :

The reason I don't use the planks with underlayment attached is that by definition it breaks the vapor barrier; important when installing over a concrete slab.

You could use a thing underlayment that incorporates a vapor barrier if you have a slab.

Apr 24, 2009 9:35 AM

Guest :

I am about to lay Pergo flooring and would like to know how to level my living room floor that is made out of compressed wood. My floor is slightly off. There are some places where there are small dips.
Thanks

Apr 25, 2009 6:05 PM

Guest :

Hi,I am putting in laminate floors from lowes. kitchen to living room, We have walls in between, stair ways fire place. Not a square room. Its alot harder than i thought. Each room i am ending up with 1 foot at least space to end of wall and stair way. Is there a way to cut them so i dont have to waste the rest? Only one end will lock once i cut them. I need them length wise. Any ideas? Thanks, Bonnie

Apr 29, 2009 8:37 AM

Guest :

I will be laying laminate flooring in a closet with a floor safe. The floor safe has a circular opening. How do I lay trim around that? I've considered transition moulding in a square pattern but would like to know how to cover the exposed concrete at each corner.

May 1, 2009 3:22 PM

Guest :

I have a hallway that is shaped like a "T", how do you install flooring at the junction so it runs long way down both halls?

May 2, 2009 1:41 PM

Guest :

How much do i cut off for staggering?

May 3, 2009 6:54 AM

Guest :

Hi Kelly,

Thank you for the site and the great information.
I have almost finished laying the laminate floor and now just doing the finishing job.

What do you suggest to use to cover the expansion gap around the stair case board that runs about 10ft and is about 1/2 inch tall?

Thanks

May 3, 2009 10:08 AM

Guest :

I currently have carpeting that I will be pulling out to replace with laminate flooring. This is my first time laying flooring. I've noticed that some flooring comes with "attached underlayment". Is that enough or do I have to add anything else.

May 4, 2009 9:22 AM

Guest :

thanks very much for the aticle on laminate flooring. I love to do things myself and i own my home so it gives me great pride. I appreciate the info as im sure all the viewers do.

May 11, 2009 9:12 AM

Guest :

We recently installed new laminate flooring. Our dining room is adjacent to a step down living room which is enclosed by railing much like that you find on stairs. This railing sits on a wood trim that tops the half wall of the living room and is where the dining room floor ends. How can I cap the end of this floor considering that each post of this rail is at the edge of the wood it sits on? There is no room to put a transition strip as you would in a doorway unless you cut out notches for each post. Any suggestions? Hope this wasn't too complicated :)

May 14, 2009 4:48 PM

Guest :

Kelly, I want to install laminate flooring in my living room. It is a long narrow room that was converted from a garage. There is a a fieldstone fireplace and hearth on one wall. There is no molding along the front of the hearth and the fieldstone is somewhat uneven, right down to the concrete floor. I don't know of any way to put quarter round or any other type of trim along the stone. How would you suggest butting the flooring up to this uneven stone?

May 15, 2009 11:10 AM

Guest :

Hi Kelly, I started to prepare the room where I am going to lay the laminate. I took off the baseboards and the carpet etc. When I took off the baseboards and carpet I noticed the drywall (wall) does not go all the way to the floor. So there is about a one inch deep space under the drywall (wall) to the cement wall. Since laminate is a floating floor and is held down by the walls how do I account for this? Do I install the baseboards first and use the baseboards as the wall or cut the laminate so it goes under the drywall (wall)? I was not expecting this. PLEASE HELP! thank you very much.

May 15, 2009 12:45 PM

Kelly Smith :

There is typically a gap between the bottom of the drywall and the unfinished floor. Just keep a 1/4" gap between the edge of the laminate and a vertical line from the face of the drywall to the floor (where the drywall would touch the floor if it went all the way down).

Then when you nail up be base, it will cover the gap. Since the base is nailed to the studs and the framing base plate, the laminate is free to float under it.

In cases where the way goes out of whack and the base doesn't cover completely, just add a strip of quarter round to the bottom of the base.

May 19, 2009 4:33 PM

Guest :

We are about to lay laminate floor over a 26 year old plywood subfloor. The floor has never been damaged by mold or wetness. Can we use 6 mil. polyethylene as the underlayment? We are not concerned about "sound" and don't understand the theory of providing a vapor barrier if there isn't any wetness to begin with.

May 20, 2009 2:34 PM

Guest :

Great tips! But we have three issues not covered:
1. How do we trim out an area by a fireplace that is surrounded by concrete?
2. Exactly how even does the subflooring have to be? When we removed wood parquet we ended up with some 1/4" discrepancies.
3. Can we leave the vinyl down and lay laminate over it?

May 22, 2009 6:54 AM

Eryn :

Hi Kelly! I'm on the third floor of a condo building, I'm installing laminate floors, how do i know which underlaying to buy? is it worth it to get the best? there was one that came free with our order but it's very thin. i'm willing to buy a thicker/noise reducing padding if it's really worth it. do i need a vapor barrier?
thanks a million.

May 29, 2009 2:53 PM

Guest :

I was curious and did not see this question. When tearing out old carpet, found old wooden flooring. Does this need to be removed before adding barrier and laminate? Thanks Gary

May 30, 2009 11:44 AM

Kelly Smith :

Hi Gary,
You can just install on top of an existing hardwood floor as long as it's flat (no big humps or dips).

Jun 6, 2009 4:37 PM

Guest :

I am converting my basement to an 'apartment' for my college bound daughter. I would like to put down a laminate floor over the current plywood floor. Do I have to put down the padded underlayment?

Jun 8, 2009 8:20 AM

Guest :

I'm installing laminate flooring in my fifth-wheel RV. I've removed the existing vinyl. Must I install a foam underlayment? I need to keep the height as low as possible for the slide out to retract without dragging on the flooring. Also, can the flooring be "glued" to the plywood sub-floor to prevent movement of the flooring during travel? Or, do you feel that gluing isn't necessary in this type of application?

Jun 8, 2009 8:21 AM

Guest :

Jun 8, 2009 3:02 PM

Guest :

What a great site! Question-Our tile transitions right up against our laminate. I want to cut the laminate back a little (1/2") so I can put a proper transition there. WOuld you just use a skill saw and cut it back, or is there something else you might use? Thanks!

Vail

Jun 10, 2009 6:56 AM

Guest :

We installed laminate flooring ourself. It has started making a popping noise. I looked and the floor is against the wall. Is there anyway to cut the flooring the 1/4" away from the wall without redoing the whole floor?

Jun 10, 2009 4:24 PM

Guest :

[TT]What is the best method to cut the laminate flooring? Would a power jigsaw do? Also, I'm thinking of starting one half of the room by removing half of the carpet and then finish up the rest on a later date. Would you see any problems with this?

Jun 14, 2009 9:09 AM

Kelly Smith :

CUTTING LAMINATE QUESTION: You might get by with a jigsaw, but it would probably make for a ragged cut. I like to use my benchtop table saw because it's so easy to set up and move around.

As far as only doing half a room, I wouldn't recommend it. Pulling up old carpeting and padding makes a heck of a dusty mess, what with all the dust sifting through it after all the years.

Jun 14, 2009 9:14 AM

Kelly Smith :

POPPING NOISE QUESTION: It's hard to get that close into the corner with a power tool. I'm thinking that RotoZip might have an attachment that would work.

Other than that, it's back to the old wood chisel and hammer...

Jun 14, 2009 11:13 AM

Guest :

2 questions...1st- when installing laminate flooring in a ground level basement with a subfloor, do we require the underpad before installing the laminate if the floorin has the rubberized/foam backing on the boards? 2nd- if we install bamboo wood floor(not the Click type) do we require putting an underpad over top of the sub floor, and glue each board along the groove?

Jun 14, 2009 6:04 PM

Guest :

We just started to insall our laminate but we have noticed the wall is not square and we cannot get the first row straight. How do we handle this? Very frustrating. Thanks

Jun 15, 2009 4:36 AM

Kelly Smith :

OUT OE SQUARE WALL: Unfortunately, walls are never square. If they are only out a inch or so from one end to the other, I usually don't worry about it; start with a full width plank and end up ripping the final run of planks at an angle on the opposite wall.

If it's off more than that, you have the option of ripping planks on both sides to equalize it. With most patterns, you'll never notice; the baseboard distracts visually.

In any event, it's a good idea to strike control lines with chalk using the 3-4-5 method so you know what you're working with.

Jun 15, 2009 4:41 AM

Kelly Smith :

TWO QUESTIONS: It sounds like your laminate is the kind that already has the underlayment attached to the planks. Just check with the manufacturers instructions as to whether you need a secondary vapor barrier. Some have them built in and you need one on a slab.

For the bamboo floor, again, this should be in the manufacturer's recommendations. They vary by brand. It's important to follow what they recommend so you don't void the warranty.

Jun 15, 2009 7:00 AM

Guest :

I'm installing laminate flooring in my fifth-wheel RV. I've removed the existing vinyl. Can the flooring be glued and/or stapled to the plywood sub-floor to prevent movement of the flooring during travel?

Jun 16, 2009 1:39 PM

Kelly Smith :

5th Wheel RV: Interesting question. Can it be done? Yes. Would I do it? No, it's not the way I would go. To secure it to the subfloor that way, you wouldn't be able to effectively use the underlayment. The underlayment acts as a pad to muffle sound and to give some flex against imperfections (highs and low spots). So you risk cracking without it.

Also, securing it down like that means it's no longer a floating-type floor. That's fine until it expands or contracts, but then secured, it has no choice but to buckle.

I would stick to vinyl.

Jun 17, 2009 10:11 AM

Guest :

Is it necessary to glue the joints between planks?

Jun 18, 2009 6:44 AM

Kelly Smith :

The planks are designed to snap together, eliminating the need to glue them together.

That being said, there are times when that is the only solution. For example when working a small piece under an undercut door jamb, there is no room to raise the plank to engage the locking mechanism. The solution is to shave off the locking edges and glue the flat-to-flat mating surfaces.

Jun 23, 2009 3:42 PM

Guest :

Hi Kelly, I am installing laminate flooring in my living room, but I don't know what to do when I approach the foyer.. There is no longer a wall to start the next row, and the opposite wall is a sharp 45 degree angle.. how do you suggest I finish the room without placing laminate in the foyer?

Jun 23, 2009 6:29 PM

Guest :

Kelly I'm installing pergo in a home well over 100 yrs old. When I removed the old carpeting I discovered tongue in groove floor planks. Some are lifting up others are seperating and some are simply uneven. After screwing down the loose planks would it be better for me to install 1/8 plywood over the existing floor? If not how would one level the existing floor?

Jun 24, 2009 4:01 AM

Kelly Smith :

LIVING ROOM TO FOYER: If I understand it, you need to transition the height difference between the new living room floor and the existing foyer floor? You should be able to buy a transition strip that is made to accommodate height differences. Your dealer should be able to order it or you if it's not in stock.

Jun 24, 2009 4:06 AM

Kelly Smith :

PERGO OVER OLD PLANKS: The best way to go would be to take up the old planks, make any repairs to the old subfloor, and then install the underlayment and new floor.

It's becoming more popular to use "recovered" wood flooring as a green building practice. You may be able to sell your old planks to someone remodeling or building new.

Jun 25, 2009 10:14 AM

Guest :

Hi, great site! We have just had beautiful laminate installed in 2 rooms. One has a large really heavy dining table + chairs, a large side by side American fridge and a heavy cabinet. The other room has 2 large heavy bookcases, a sofa bed and a condensing tumble dryer. Will we have a problem with all the weight? We have not put the furniture back in yet as we are too scared and are practically tip-toeing around. We have bought a dehumidifier for the room with the tumble dryer but don't know if we should use it or not. Jessica

Jun 26, 2009 6:46 AM

Guest :

I am having trouble snapping together the pieces end for end. Any suggestions?

Jun 27, 2009 6:36 AM

Guest :

we just completed installing laminate flooring and it looks great. we originally overcompensated for space on our starter wall but realized part way through the job that the spacers had fallen out and now the first row is very close to the wall. There is ample space on all other walls. Is this going to cause a problem? Do we need to take it out and start over?

Jun 27, 2009 6:50 AM

Kelly Smith :

The floor should be fine with the furniture. The weight shouldn't be a problem.

Jun 27, 2009 6:57 AM

Kelly Smith :

Space to the wall question: You should be able to use your pull bar and a mallet to scoot the floor over a bit to equalize the perimeter gaps.

Jun 28, 2009 8:16 PM

Guest :

I'm doing laminate in an old mobile home thats been converted to an office. I started in one bedroom and worked my way towards the hallway. When I got to the hallway it worked out that it was purfect to keep going into the hall without a doorstrip, so i went into and down the whole length of the hall. Now I'm at the other end of the hall, about to work out into the kitchen, but am looking at the otherside of the planks. I thought I'd be able to snap the bottom lip of the next planks under the top lip of the ones I've done, but they won't lock in. Any suggestions would be great, thanks.